Monday, November 06, 2006

Allapuzha

After 3 nights in Kochi I left early but just missed the 8am Kochi-Ernakulem ferry & spent the time chatting with Izabella from Ireland. After the crowded morning ferry ride I shared a taxi with a woman from France to the Bus Station. There I got a Bus to Allapuzha which is a departure point for for backwater ferries to Kollam & Kottayam , the Kerala backwater setting for Arunhati Roy's Booker Award Novel 'The God of Small Things'.
On arrival in Allapuzha(or Alleppy) I went to the Canal but just missed the 1030am Ferry to Kollam. (Amritapuri Ashram is one of the stops) The numerous 'touts' or salesmen/hustlers found me however as I was the only white man in sight. Friendly but annoyingly persistent with offers to stay at their home/hostel, ride their canoe/boat & even an offer for a scooter ride to a restaurant around the corner(for a fee of course)...I'm realizing that in any tourist area I'm considered a 'living ATM machine' and to keep walking is the best policy to disengage touts.
I kept walking around the busy little town & eventually let myself be led by an old man smoking a bindi to a cheap hotel. In the lobby I met Skanda K. a local businessman who invited me to his childhood village where he recently bought land.
Thumpolly Village, a few km. from Alleppy, is nestled in coconut palm groves with sandy footpaths leading to small houses located between waterways & the Arabian Sea. Skanda gave me a tour of his land & we visited the nearest house which had a large number of folks remaining from a wedding the previous day. Although I rarely drink or eat meat they insisted I have some of their homemade alcohal drink(strong as moonshine!) & I ate some spicy fresh fish. Afterwards we walked a short distance to his elder Uncle's house who joined us for a tour of the village. We had chai tea at a teahouse & then went to a private clubhouse for 3 'toddies'(low alcohol drinks)...Skanda's Uncle invited me to his daughters wedding Dec. 1st & I promised I would attend if still in Kerala. ( I have no idea where I'll be Dec. 1st but my flight leaves from Delhi Dec.8!)

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